Monday, July 13, 2009

Duplicity

In as much that this film is a success, it is Clive Owen's success. He provides the film's likeability, even while Gilroy's looping plot structure is working hard to generate a contrasting mood of arduousness.

Julia Roberts's character Claire Stenwick is by no means unattractive (though V and I had a little debate about what Roberts might have had done to her eye-lids recently) but she's the more inscrutable, less innately vulnerable of the pair.

Given the success of Michael Clayton I was wondering why Gilroy didn't essay a more serious piece on industrial espionage, but perhaps even he realised that the resolution of this particular tangle would depend on some major assumptions and some pretty ropy plot points (the photocopiers!) and hence chose to douse the whole thing in low key levity in order to distract audiences from these imperfections.

Grade: B+


Saturday, July 11, 2009

Sunshine Cleaning

Short, shallow and yes (mostly) sunny throughout, this is a movie whose lightness and desire to be liked I found wholly forgiveable.

A lot of the critics seem to disagree with me*. Sure, another writer could have taken the same characters in the identical situation and come up with something a bit more incisive. What we have here is a slice of life with at best, only the outline of a plot, yet I found the characters engaging enough not to rue seeing them pushed into profounder situations.

Emily Blunt in particular gets a great deal out of the simple details, and it is as a rather coy collection of these that Sunshine Cleaning ought to be judged.

* Stephanie Zacharek in Salon for example: "Sunshine Cleaning is something like Little Miss Sunshine, in that its quirkiness has a facile, efficient quality. It has nothing of the openheartedness of Juno (a quality that softens even the aggressive cleverness of Diablo Cody's script). So how you'll feel about Sunshine Cleaning probably depends on your tolerance for slender, semi-hip comedic dramas about oddball families grappling with sometimes overwhelming problems." and Roger Ebert: "This is promising material. Gene Siskel loved movies about what people actually do all day. There is even a documentary subject here. But not this film that compromises on everything it implies, because it wants to be cheerful about people who don't have much to be cheerful about. How can you make a feel-good movie about murder-scene clean-ups?...You won't have a bad time seeing this film. You may get a little frustrated waiting for it to take off. It keeps heading down different runways. There's a movie here somewhere. Not this one."

Grade: B(+)


Wednesday, July 08, 2009

RocknRolla

Fun for about fifteen minutes.

It starts off like one of those Guatemalan after-dinner stories. The teller is known to you and for a while you listen with a smile on your face, tickled by the way the tale is being told.

But sometimes, as happened here, the story will start to spin in circles of decreasing fascination, and your cheeriness will slowly subside as the punchline edges nearer, like una decepción anunciada.

It doesn't help that Ritchie's script lacks a central protagonist — the eponymous rocknrolla is a minor, rather distracting character really. And the only real sting in its tail is the brazen threat of a sequel.

Grade: B(-)

Monday, July 06, 2009

Happy Planet


Central America has come out rather well from the second global compilation of the Happy Planet Index. The colour-coding in the map above reflects each country's rating relative to the three key metrics of Life Satisfaction, Life Expectancy and Ecological Footprint.

Meanwhile, the US ranks alongside sub-Saharan Africa as the shittiest place to live on Earth.

One does however tend to be suspicious of data emanating from a region where so many people are manifestly incapable of thinking for themselves. Unlike Richard Dawkins I don't actually think the world would necessarily be a more functional and contented sort of place if atheism and free thinking were the norm, but it does bother me how the majority of my neighbours here in Guatemala wear their conventional (and conditioned) worldviews like a kind of straight-jacket, which indubitably hampers them in so many ways...and yet their very rigidity prevents many from flourishing as they ought, for they seemingly fear unconventionality as others fear depravity.


Friday, July 03, 2009

JCVD

Works hard to be almost a lot of things, starting with clever.

Almost a comedy, almost a thriller, almost even a fly-on-the-wall documentary about a washed up action star.

And in spite of its manifest meta-aspirations, its whole is some way short of the sum of its parts.

Grade: B(-)

Thursday, July 02, 2009

High in Hants


One of the apparent knock-on effects of the 'success' of the war in Afghanistan has been a global shortage of the kind of poppies typically used to make morphine. So — a little on the quiet — the UK government has been encouraging farmers to grow their own. This particular opium poppy field in rural Hampshire has proved handy for my mate 'Dead Man's Hat' who has natural laboratorical tendencies, usually taking upwards of thirty minutes to produce even the most basic cup of home-roasted coffee!


Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Toga Party!

There are essentially two kinds of rampaging American college mob.

The sort one comes across in Cancun and the sort one comes across in Florence.

The Madrid variant represents a more or less feliz compromise. (Though, this lot quite possibly think they're in Rome.)

Monday, June 22, 2009

TV Viewing Diary

I've just finished watching the first (1974) episode of Red Riding. It's grim oop north, but was it ever that grim? The writers have said they set about trying to create a new TV genre called 'Yorkshire Noir' yet there's something almost science fiction-like going on here: this is such a stylised, palette-limited, dystopic alternative Yorkshire of a couple of generations ago that it could almost be something that originated in a graphical novel. Sean Bean was truly superb. "All this over a fookin' supermarket...?"

Watch the Newsnight Review bods discussing it.

Paul Morley makes comparisons with The Wire. That's a bandwagon it's taken me a while to jump on, largely because of an aversion to David Simon acquired through interviews broadcast by the BBC. Now halfway through the first season I have to admit that there is indeed a lot to admire in this much chattered about series. I'd still have to quibble however that the scripts share some of the self-regarding qualities of its creator and the whole thing has some of the structural weaknesses of fictional drama penned by individuals with a non-fiction/journalistic sensibility.

Dominic West (McNulty) also appeared as Oliver Cromwell in another excellent Channel 4 series I caught up while here in the UK was The Devil's Whore. This too was readjusted, hyperreal history disguised as unchallenging costume drama, and unlike Red Riding it appeared to be determinedly beaming back a consistent message for our own times.

And how good is True Blood? Actually, I've come to realise I like just about any dramas set in America's pestilential south, but this is really terrific. I discovered it almost by accident when listening to the New York Times book podcast. They were being rather sniffy about the latest Sookie Stackhouse novel from The Southern Vampire Mysteries by Charlaine Harris (then at the summit of their bestsellers' list) yet somehow inadvertently sold me the HBO series based on the books. It has been created by Alan Ball (of Six Feet Under fame) and he brings a sort of unfettered Russell T. Davies sensibility to this tale of vampires coming out of the coffin in rednecky Louisiana.

So, three excellent TV dramas set against strikingly hyperreal backdrops, and one which is perhaps a bit too real for its own good.


Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Angels & Demons

It's been a bad month for cinema this particular month that I chose to return to the UK. Since taking myself off to see Star Trek almost immediately after arrival there's been little to tempt me back into the Reading Vue. This week I'd reached the stage where I was just about prepared to go and see any old nonsense. Suppose Angels and Demons, I duly pondered, is just so awful it ends up being entertaining?

In the end I suppose it did the trick, though not being one for puzzles of any kind, there were parts of the first third which threatened to sedate me.

Overall I couldn't help thinking of Epitafios. Professor Langdon doesn't pop pills and chain-smoke quite like Lorenzo, but he does have a nack for solving complex symbolic brain teasers in time to arrive just before rigor mortis sets in.

Indeed, there's also much of the same sado-masochistic, Roman Catholic morbidity, the often shocking and wasteful violence, the sense of investigative incompetence, and the mass police casualties.

Grade: B

Tuesday, June 09, 2009

Baguette gone wrong



What's that she's holding?

Atitlán vistas aside, most of this vid was shot in Mexico, land of mouth masks and Acapulco shoot-outs. But that dancing silhouette reminds me of the dickheads who turned up in Cornwall for the total eclipse in 1999.

Ocean Pacific and Atlantic Pacific



Cheek and Chiong


Yet another example of the kind of televisual chaos that Guatemala seems to specialise in. Last year's Miss Guatemala, Jennifer Chiong, hadn't been invited to this year's pageant owing to some prickly contractural issues, but decided to turn up anyway in order to hand over her crown. In came the heavies to forcibly remove her from the set and the event duly descended into chaos...




Tenemos cualidades...

Si que chulo ser Chapín



A brief discourse on how the Guatemaltecos acquired their nickname.

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Sembrando

The case of the encarcerated twitterador Jean Ramsés Anleu Fernández, and the debate about freedom of expression it had engendered, reminds me of a gag that V exchanged recently with her nephew Marco Vinicio:

Que hace Dracula a la media noche en una siembra?
Sembrando el pánico...

Monday, May 25, 2009

Body of Lies

Not sure whether it wants to be a plot-driven or a character-driven movie, though it's much better at the latter.

Mark Strong's dodgy Arab vanquishes the performances from Ridley Scott's perennial chums Crowe and Di Caprio.

Crowe plays a vainglorious CIA operations man who appears to run the war on terror from his kids' little league pitch. "There are no innocents" and "there's nothing to like" about the Middle East are his watchwords. Meanwhile Di Caprio plays his favourite on-the-scene operative as a man who is sorely tempted to go native.

Plot absurdities aside it's not a bad movie. I watched half on the Virgin Airbus and then downloaded the rest to watch at home. The plaintive Arabian score is now a cliché, albeit one that Scott himself probably invented.

Grade: B (+)



Quincentenary



So this is what I missed on Saturday, having fled the scene before the orgy of light classical entertainment commenced. Baksheesh had backstabbed and I didn't fancy it on my own. (Note how Welsh mezzo-soprano Katherine Jenkins can't help but propose marriage to a Pauline...any Pauline!)

The occasion, dubbed the Q Festival (Q for Quincentenary) was a kind of premium open day event designed to mark the 500th anniversay of the founding of S.P.S. (Yes, the school is actually older than 'Antigua' Guatemala....)

Many of the buildings in which I myself toiled, constructed rather hastily in the late 60s when the school shifted itself across Hammersmith Bridge to Barnes, are now awaiting demolition. The maqueta for the planned new school was on display in the Montgommery Room...surrounded by flyers asking for donations. So maybe this would have been my last chance to take this little nostalgic trip back to my formative years. Frankly the place looks rather tired and tatty. Roll on the bulldozers.

Speaking of Montgommery, a brief perusal of the boards highlighting memoral old boys from each of the five centuries revealed to me that there were in fact two OPs at the heart of the glorious cock-up known as Operation Market Garden in 1944 - for Major General Roy Urquart (a part played by Sean Connery in A Bridge Too Far) had also attended the school. He was to spend most of the battle for Arnhem Bridge holed up in a Dutch town house as the 1st Airborne Division was wiped out around him.

Eisenhower apparently thought Monty's problem was that he was a bit chippy because he didn't go to either Eton or Harrow. The Yank-in-chief obviously hadn't met many Paulines before. The military tradition has been strong there over the centuries, with John Churchill, the first Duke of Marlborough and occupant of Blenheim Palace, being the stand-out example.

On Saturday I couldn't help chuckle when I spotted small hordes of men, not that much older than myself, dressed as if they had spent the middle part of the last century shooting down Messerschmitts, what.

My favourite OP will always be Samuel Pepys, with John Milton a close second. Surprisingly there was space on the twentieth century display for G.K. Chesterton (Catholic) but none for Sir Isaiah Berlin (not so Catholic). Rampant atheist Dr Jonathan Miller wasn't on there either, but they did name the theatre after him!

When I left I had to swim against the flow of boaters, panamas, picnic baskets and all kinds of perpetual public schoolboy totems, as the whole sub-Glyndbourne summer shindig got under way.

"Mentes Perversas"

I think Colom shouldset up a competition for international crime writers with a substantial cash prize for the one who can come up with the finest conspiracy scenario which a) exonerates the President and b) is convincingly murky, enredado and Guatemalan.

I've given the matter a little thought myself. There are a couple of rather obvious solutions to the puzzle which don't depend on Rosenberg having been a crazed suicidal maniac.

The first (which borrows from Harlan Coben's Tell No One) is that the body the cops picked up beside the stricken bike and subsequently buried wasn't Lic. Rosenberg after all and that the latter has been spirited out the country with a new identity. A bit too obvious that one, and Rosenberg had a family.

A second possibility is that Rosenberg genuinely believed that his life was in danger and went to the newspaper in good faith, but the hack who made the video subsequently tipped off some shady right-wing conspirator types that he knew where to find a man who believed he was about to be the victim of a political murder and said tipos thought this was too good an opportunity to pass up. The trouble with this one, for Colom at least, is that while it clears him of the assassination, it leaves open the possibility that everything Rosenberg alleges in the video is factual.

On the other hand, suppose Rosenberg had misconstrued the deaths of Musa and his daughter and went to consult Mario David García with his suspicions. The allegations in the video are intriguingly non-specific. ("Todos los Guatemaltecos lo sabemos" wouldn't stand up in court, even in Guatemala.) The conservative journalist, said to have supported pronunciamientos in his day, could then have imagined a certain scenario and persuaded a panicky and impressionable Rosenberg to participate...


Suggestions welcomed...


Thursday, May 21, 2009

Star Trek


Chris Pine plays Kirk as everyone's least favourite Yank and with every knowing sideways glance I half-expected Zachary Quinto's Spock to commence cranial surgery with his right index finger. Bana's Nero was also little more than a walking, talking plot contrivance, but in spite of these apparently significant defects (and some rather overblown effects - the sort where you're sure that something impressive is happening but you can't quite see what) I can't really say that I didn't find this an entertaining way to forget that I was in Reading for a couple of hours...

Grade: B+

Monday, May 18, 2009

"Sólo muerto me sacarán del palacio"

Trust Guatemala to go into political meltdown the moment my back is turned!

I've been generally a bit too busy to pay too much attention to the gathering crisis, but the first inkling I had that something was amiss came last week when we were channel surfing the local terrestrials and came across President Colom (pictured) addressing the nation with his entire cabinet standing behind him like a sombre Greek chorus.

It appeared that someone had accused him of complicity in the death of a lawyer called Rodrigo Rosenberg, and this was no mere case of a panic-spreading tweeter. No, Rosenberg himself had employed a decidedly old-media technique, leaving behind the sort of "If you are watching this then I am dead"-type production last seen in The Italian Job.

Colom's performance was a touch bizarre, scrunching his features into the sincerest of demeanors and waving his hands out in front of him whilst his colleagues behind looked as if they just might be about to whip out their daggers.

I haven't followed the details of the case, but I have been left to ponder the possible motive behind this crime. Other than the fact that Rosenberg might have won a competion for having the name the President was least likely to be able to enunciate properly in a televised address such as this, I can't see why the chief exec would have wanted to do away with him, ...though Colom might just have got a little complacent given the general state of impunity that prevails. (In his 18 minute posthumous YouTube statement, Rosenberg suggests that he expected to be whacked at any minute for having refused to take part in various complex financial porquerías at Banrural associated with the narcos and a number of non-existent projects set-up by Mrs Colom.)

A J'accuse from a dead man is bound to be a powerful stain on any politician's record, particularly in a nation inclined to superstitions of all sorts. Meanwhile, the social and racial fault-line that runs down the centre of the country has clearly been reactivated in somewhat spectacular fashion.





Sacar el pisto del Banrural

Guatemalan cops arrested this chap (Jean Ramsés Anleu Fernández) last week and have since charged him with spreading 'financial panic' from his Twitter account. (Jeanfer)

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Empedrado (3)


Right behind our house, a team of workers are making, as my friend Joel would have it, another medieval road! So far that ciprés is preserving its place within the new urban layout.

Unlike the Muni's road resurfacing project at the front of our home, this one a private job, paid for by the investors in the new residential zone taking shape in what, until just a couple of weeks ago, was a small finca specialising in the production of oranges and chuchos callejeros.

There's a better mix of volcanic stones being used here, V assures me, with far fewer of the bofos which were the primary raw material of our own empedrado. (I doubt whether these ones will largely disappear under a thin coating of concrete either.)

Periodically a smart new Range Rover turns up and offloads a group of what Felipe is wont to call fufurufos, who then proceed to stride around importantly. There's clearly a significant amount of money behind this development.

It has been interesting for me to observe the various patterns of work which prevail across the various projects now in motion. The main Muni team, paid on a project basis, have moved pretty fast and have generally worked very hard, starting at 7am each morning and often only finishing at dusk. They are far less prone to the kind of haraganeando that characterises the comparatively sluggish progress of the smaller, day-rate team tasked with completing the pavements alongside the cobbles. Both groups have occasionally suffered from shortages of material which have slowed up a project otherwise been undertaken with a mood of urgency.

It seems I will miss the grand inauguration of Panorama's new streets which Antigua's mayor Dr Vivar has planned as the culmination of the process he instigated back in 2007, when he first started knocking on doors round here promising a nice new cobbled road in return for votes. The street parallel to ours was done first and has been finished for almost a month. Yet it is as yet blocked off to traffic, and will remain so until the Mayor has had his chance to wallow in the gratitude of Panoramtecos.

There are rumours that the smaller plots in the new lotificación will be going for around $45,000, roughly equivalent to what the terrenos in Bosques de Antigua cost just over a decade ago. V is intrigued to know what it is going to be called ('Naranjales de Antigua'??), but my main curiosity surrounds the issue of whether it will be an open area like Jardines or a closed, gated community like Bosques. Remax Colonial would appear to be the construction firm in overall charge, which also leads me to wonder whether any pre-built homes will be marketed here or whether this will be a lots only affair.

I'm not sure what to make of the efficiency of the massive team of construction workers now deployed there. The heavy machinery was impressive...for a while at least. But during the last few days they appeared to be indulging in temporising tactics such as flattening and then re-ploughing up the recently-laid white sand surface, indicating perhaps that they had somewhat over-estimated the time needed to get things ready for the albañiles scheduled to start yesterday.

The switch from mechanised to manual labour saw a return to more familiar Guatemalan working practices. A lorry offloaded a stack of obviously heavy concrete blocks (the basis of the new kerb) which were then carried individually up the other end of the track by a small sub-group entrusted with this back-breaking task. With a wheelbarrow (which they do have because I've seen them using a couple today - look at the picture!) several blocks might have been transported at once and at greater speed...

Meanwhile Doña T, who had been providing free refreshments to Dr Vivar's cohorts has since enterprisingly lauched a small tortilla cafe, thus setting herself up to recuperate some of her earlier, socially-spirited investment from the pockets of the private army of labourers likely to be floating around these parts for many weeks to come.

The cobbles pictured above will be laid to around the halfway mark of the road. Such is the bend in it that anyone driving past on the main highway will probably not notice that the rest will, for the time being at least, remain a bumpy, rough-earth track. This is after all an exercise in cosmetics, designed to provide an attractive colonial driveway outside the main entrance of 'Naranjales' or whatever it is to be called.

Pantalla Azul de la Muerte

My blogging activities have been seriously curtailed of late by a series of intermittent faults on my laptop. It does appear more or less stable now, but the sound card is still screwed so it will have to go back to the tecnico later this afternoon.

Tuesday, May 05, 2009

The Berlin Diaries of Marie 'Missie' Vasiltchikov (2)

There's a new book out about the Nazis' relationship with Germany's blue-blood elite: High Society in the Third Reich by Fabrice d'Almeida. 

This review of it by Christopher Clark would seem to indicate that d'Almeida's argument potentially debunks one of my biggest take-outs so far from Missie's diary - that upper class Germans generally regarded the Nazis as creepy and rather preposterous parvenus.

For it appears that by 1938 nearly a fifth of all senior SS officers were titled noblemen and after physicians (43% were party members in '37), aristocrats were in fact the most Nazified sector of German society. Berlin's nightclubs reportedly  'heaved' with members of the minor rural nobility in black SS uniforms. 

d'Almeida explains how the regime co-opted the elites, buying off senior army officers with lavish gifts and associating themselves heavily with toff pastimes such as horse racing (the use of selective breeding here appealed strongly) and bash throwing. 

Missie on the other hand gives the impression that the refined circles she moved in were practically an opposition in waiting. There has to be some truth in this because many in her immediate circle were key participants in the failed July 20 plot. (see Tom Cruise in Valkyrie...or rather don't.) and in reading her diaries I was genuinely surprised at how much of pre-1918 European high society continued to function within what was clearly a far completely totalitarian regime than that of Stalin's Soviet Union...at least prior to 1942 when Goebbels was to declare that "the bourgeois era with its false and misleading notion of humaneness is over." (One is perhaps led to re-consider the controversial — and clearly distorted — view recently expressed by Nicholson Baker in Human Smoke, that the course of the early years of the war contributed to making Nazi Germany a more single-mindedly murderous place. ) 

A week or so ago I listened to Jason Isaacs being interviewed by Simon Mayo on R5 prior to the release of Good. Mayo expressed the opinion that he found it hard to believe that Viggo Mortensen's character John Halder wasn't on some level aware that SS membership would make him an accessory to the crime of the century. Isaacs response was fairly credible I thought: that in the early 30s at least, German citizens could have had only a limited notion of what the regime was capable of in the context of 'total war', and that many people tend to compartmentalise their political likes and dislikes. 

Missie's diary makes it pretty clear that 30s Germany was a very different kind of political society. Resistance to the fascist programme was far less likely to come in this instance from a mass of informed citzens whose views were tempered by an uncensored media. (Isaacs made the point too that when the film was shown in Eastern Europe people there had much less trouble understanding the absence of conserted protest.)  

Two groups might have put up more of a fight, but were inherently more likely to take to the salon than to the street. The bourgeoisie (rather like the Chinese middle classes today) had anyway largely sold their souls to authoritarianism in return for economic prosperity, and the upper classes meanwhile were rather too committed to the dream of a German military resurgence. 

The diaries do give a tantalising glimpse of what a lone, high-born individual might have achieved. On Tuesday January 25th 1944 Missie learned of the death in aerial combat of her friend Major Prince Heinrich von Sayn-Wittgenstein (pictured), Germany's leading night-fighter ace at the time with 83 victories to his name. 

"Only a few days ago Heinrich had rung me up at the office. He had been to Hitler's HQ to receive from the hands of  'the Almighty' the Oak Leaves to his Knight's Cross. He said on the phone "Ich war bei unseren Liebling" ['I have been to see our Darling'] and added that, to his surprise, his hand gun had not been removed before he entered 'the Presence' (as is customary nowadays) so that it might have been possible to 'bump him off' right then and there. He went on to elaborate on the subject until I remarked that it might be preferable to continue the conversation elsewhere. When we met a little later, he started to speculate about the possibility of blowing himself up with Hitler when they shook hands. Poor boy, little did he suspect that he had only a few more days to live! And yet he seemed so fragile that I always worried about him. He had become Germany's most successful night fighter, was constantly in action and was clearly worn out. He often spoke of the agony he felt about having to kill people and how, whenever possible, he tried to hit the enemy plane in such a way that the crew could bail out."

And on Sunday February 6: 

"Melanie [Bismark] brought back some earth and odd bits of his plane, such as the windshield and parts of the motor. She thought his parents in Switzerland might wants some relics. I hardly think so. It only makes things worse. If only they had not sent the three boys back to Germany when the war started! What with their Russian and French ancestors they were barely German in the first place. It is thought that Heinrich was unconscious when he hit the ground, as his parachute never opened and he was found, shoeless, quite some distance from the plane. He usually wore light pumps, with just a coat thrown over his civilian clothes. I remember him going up once in a raincoat thrown over a dinner jacket. He had become such an ace that he did whatever he pleased. The rest of his crew survived, as he made them jump when the plane was hit. Either he injured his head jumping out last or else he was wounded and could not pull open his parachute. Melanie gave me some scraps of metal as a keepsake. Maybe this will make me realise at last that we have lost him."
 


Monday, May 04, 2009

Semana Santa: Pic of the Day



Mexican Wave 2.0?

Now that the first wave of fajita flu has turned out to be a bit of a damp squib they are prepping us for a bit of a late summer panic when a second wave might — just might — take hold.

Still no confirmed cases here in Guatemala, but 18 suspected ones have been thrown out. Anyway, it's harder to spook people in a land where nearly 20 people die each day from the violence virus.

Up in Mexico they've had to admit that many of the people they thought had died from influenza porcina did in fact expire as a result of something completely different. Meanwhile they've waved goodbye to their economy.

A better reason to be scared turned up in Guatemala this weekend...an earthquake registering 6.1 on the Richter scale. It was certainly the strongest of the year so far and perhaps the most powerful I have experienced whilst sitting at my desk up in the studio. (3rd Floor)

We both felt a little seasick afterwards. Nothing fell off the shelves though and the quake was obviously not significant enough to make it onto CNN, the BBC or even the front page of today's El Periódico.

The Daily Mail is of course way too busy trying to generate panic amongst its high-minded readership, though unlike its conservative counterparts in the US, has yet to find a way to clearly link the deadly plague of microbes with that of migrant workers.



Workers' Holiday


The albañiles working on the road outside had their on Mayday celebration on Saturday 2nd. Building sites all around the neighbourhood were decorated with crosses, balloons and ribbons and their resident trabjadores gathered to have a little tipple and let off some fireworks.

There wasn't a May Bank Holiday in the UK until the early 70s as this date was up to then generally associated with revolting plebs and missile launchers trundling through Red Square.

For this very reason the High Master decided that his boys were too posh to partake in such proletarian merrymaking, and for the first few annual instances of the new holiday insisted that we all come into school as usual.

This didn't go down at all well with many of the parents who — employed in the main by less august and discriminating institutions — tended to resent having to spend a summer bank holiday without their children. For others of course, this must have been a bit of a godsend...

Sunday, May 03, 2009

Semana Santa: Pic of the Day

The Berlin Diaries of Marie "Missie" Vasiltchikov (1)

Missie's diary takes one back immediately to an era when people could put up with quite a lot in terms of chaos and destruction, not to mention insane and incompetent politicians. 

Our generation in comparison is a bit pathetic. A couple of banks go tits up and we lose the will to live. Bomber Harris might have saved himself the hassle of months of day and night bombing raids (which ultimately seemed to have had little impact on German morale) and just parachuted a sneezing Mexican into the Third Reich's capital. 

Sunday Feb. 6, 1944: "Much of the Kufürstendamm is now destroyed. Tried to look up Sigrid Görtz who lived just behind it. Her house was the only one still standing. I went up the stairs but they stopped in mid-air and her flat at the top was gone; nobody knew where she was."



Casa Tomada



Read by Cortázar himself. Sounds a bit like a misa at first!

Saturday, May 02, 2009

Semana Santa: Pic of the Day

Another one from access-all-areas cucurucho Felipe. 

Friday, May 01, 2009

Masquerade


The Guardian has a fine selection of customised fajita flu face masks. 


The Fajita Flu!



Semana Santa Pic of the Day


This one was taken by my cuñado Felipe, who likes to get into potentially tricky spots to get the perfect Easter pic!


Semana Santa: Pic of the Day



Swine Flu

Around 36,000 people die each year in the USA from flu-related causes, averaging about 3000 a month.

Mexico has a population of 109m, roughly a third of that of the States, so you might expect normal flu mortality rates there in the region of 1000 pcm. (Though of course a greater proportion of the gringo population has easier access to basic medicine.)

So the 200 or so fatalities from swine flu since March look a bit insignificant...especially when you consider that most of these deaths resulted from pneumonia, a bacterial complication following the original viral infection (and that roughly five times that number of Mexicans will have died as a result of so-called ordinary flu in the same period.)

Many of these deaths could also have been avoided if the patients had presented earlier at their local clinic.

Conclusion - it's all bollocks.

[Though it's still kind of handy that most of our northern frontier is covered in dense jungle!]

Thursday, April 30, 2009

Quote of the Day

"The good news is, this disease is curable."
Mexican Presidente Felipe Calderón in his public address last night.

Meanwhile two Mexican doctors writing a diary for the BBC News website commented on Monday that their "government says that it has antiviral drugs available to treat a million cases but we do not have easy access to these, even though we are part of the health sector." 



Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Semana Santa: Pic of the Day

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

This is somehow familiar...



Quote of the Day

“I am crossing my fingers ... It could be a positive impact for Telmex.”
Adolfo Cerezo, CFO Telmex

...hoping that concerned relatives phoning home will drive up profits. Rather depends on the people at the other end of the line not being dead!

[I might have to start a couple of new series this week - Flumourmonger of the Day or indeed Ambulance Chaser of the Day.]

Semana Santa: Pic of the Day

Monday, April 27, 2009

Flumours

Pontiac is dead. And so will we all be quite shortly if the flumours are to be believed.

I had a girlfriend with a Pontiac (Firebird) when I was 17. The windows couldn't be rolled down so getting in and out was all very Dukes of Hazard.

In Guatemala City, a hospital director has just told local radio that a 29-year old who had recently been to Mexico has symptoms similar to those reported in swine flu cases up there. Up until now the Guatemalan media weren't particularly interested in the gathering doom up north in the land of their unloved neighbour.

V and I are a few years the wrong side of the fatal age-range; for once it may be advantageous to be a bit over the colina. (And to be living the troglodyte lifestyle.)

But will the UK welcome me back next month...and perhaps more pertinently, will I want to share a Jumbo with a bunch of spluttering sickies?

Anyway, dumbass panics such as these provide a feast of opportuities for buitre-like, bad news investors such as myself. Take Continental Airlines. Down 16% at the start of today's trading, but recovering nicely already. Did the stock take its Tamiflu as soon as symptoms developed?

Has anyone considered the altitude and air quality of Mexico DF as complicating factors?



Golf won't save you...



Get a shot...or shoot that chihuahua.

Semana Santa: Pic of the Day

Noble Savages?


The notion that peoples on the margins of what we take to be advanced civilisation are somewhow leading lives that are more authentic and 'natural' first took hold properly in the West with the writings of Jean Jacques Rousseau. It was tosh then and it's tosh now. But judging by that Revue article I commented on last week, it remains rather tempting tosh.

Guatemala has always been my rabbit hole: "an improbable world inhabited by many strange characters," according to Wikipedia. There's no question that anyone who has grown up in one of the world's leading metropolises is going to find that things are done very differently here.

In the picture above for instance, our neighbour Doña T is providing refreshments (soft drinks and filled rolls) to the Muni workers laying down the new road surface outside. It's a gesture of community spirit of the purest kind, one that will surely leave a dent in her weekly budget, and one that I can hardly imagine seeing the like of in London. But hold on, a Guatemalan archetype she might be, but just how arche-typical is this behaviour?

Fresh in my mind is the nightly road-watering activity of another local denizen who makes sure that not a single drop of water from his hose strays across the half-way line of the street in front of his home...or indeed passes laterally into the zone of his own vecinos' territorial responsibility.

On balance — sad to say — the extreme of self-centeredness is more commoplace in this little Guatemalan neighbourhood than its heart-lifting counterpart. For every noble savage there are after all usually several who want to eat your eyeballs for dinner after shrinking your skull. That said, nowhere in Panorama do you encounter the quite frightful attitude problems that prevail just a block or two away in Jardines de Antigua!

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Semana Santa: (Moving) Pic of the Day

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Empedrado (2)


Day three and the first signs of a possible setback. Plenty of stones have now been laid on the upper third of our street and now someone has popped up to say that they need to find a buried drain. Of course nobody around here remembers where this was and the Muni guys have already opened eight big holes this morning in what is proving to be a rather fruitless search. You'd think they'd have worked this one out before they started...

Empedrado (1)


This is all very exciting. After 30 years the Muni has finally decided to cobble the last few uncobbled streets in Panorama, including our own, where work started this Monday. I'll be uploading further images of their progress over the next few weeks.

Semana Santa: (Moving) Pic of the Day



At this time in the morning I head for the Calle Ancha where some of the best carpets are made. This long one was on the road leading up there.


Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Beggars sitting on a gold bench?

Obama's new bedside book, Las Venas Abiertas de America Latina (1971), was a revealing gift last week from Hugo Chávez.

With its malign view of external investment in the region, Eduardo Galeano's book is a standard text for students of 'dependency theory', which views Latin American nations as essentially wealthy societies perennially dispoiled by serial muggers from outside.

The Uruguayan Marxist's exposition also epitomises what economists call the 'natural resource myth'. This determination to believe that the true potential for prosperity is somehow hidden in the ground beneath one's feet so afflicted the Spanish in their demented drive for native gold and other minerals that they completely failed to perceive that the real wealth generation emanating from their colonial escapades was taking place in Northern (and Protestant) Europe's financial centres.

For aside from blips like the one we are currently experiencing, it has generally been better to be in credit than in commodities, and Venezuela's black gold is surely just a modern substrate for the same old Latin American delusion. Resource wealth is so often a curse not a blessing. (Though Iceland is probably pleased to be able to fall back on fish right now...)

If you add to that a belief that trade is always a zero sum game and that all foreign involvement in local economies is exploitative, then you have a recipe for getting trapped within a dogmatic outlook which explains Latin American underdevelopment as purely and simply the cost of industrial progress in the rich world, and thus provides a reliable framework for further underachievement.

I'm not saying that this continent's commercial relationships with the outside world have never been exploitative, I just don't agree with the proposition that the majority of foreign investors here are imperialistic in intention and effect. It's frankly no more helpful than the statement that all the local cops are fascist pigs.

Even the most blatantly one-sided relationships in the post-colonial era (say the activities of the United Fruit Company) are not entirely black and white when observed in detail. This early multinational brought an albeit fleeting prosperity to particularly underdeveloped tracts of tropical lowland, whilst funding schools and hospitals along with philanthropic projects such as the excavation of Quiriguá in Guatemala.

Che Guevara originally came to this country to apply for a job in one of 'el pulpo's' hospitals. Gabriel García Márquez meanwhile grew up in Colombia surrounded by United Fruit plantations (Macondo is in fact named after one) and reports in his autobiography on the boom years, the period of struggle and repression, and then the enormous sense of loss when the people of his home town faced up to the fact that the company was gone and would never return.

Poverty of Imagination?

An article in Revue this month caught my eye, largely because its author Ana Flinder had reached precisely the opposite conclusion to my own regarding the relative "imaginative poverty" of Guatemalan and 'Western' children. Neither one of us is necessarily right or wrong, because it's clear we have different samples in mind. (And a rather different set of non-native prejudices.)

Flinder for example has had to resort to a number of generalisations in order to make her point, generalisations that seem to come a bit too naturally to many 'western' visitors here. For instance, from 'Guatemalan' she generally infers poor people and from 'North American' she generally infers people of affluence (and from other remarks made in the piece, urbanites or suburbanites in the main as well.)

This association comes almost reflexively to a certain kind of observer who back home tends to feel somewhat uncomfortable in his or her middlingly well-off, middle-class skin.

Now it's certainly true that relative to population size, a greater proportion of US parents have both the income and the inclination to buy games consoles for their children. And comparing the two societies there is a marked variation in the pervasiveness of consumer culture, but I have found over the years that the consequences of this in terms of imagination and overall whiney-ness are not as clearcut as Flinder suggests.

The flip-side of this tendency to idealise a lack in others (in largely material terms) is the unwillingness to even notice those parts of Guatemalan society where capitalism's hold is stronger. It's Macondo they came here for after all, not McOndo. Guatemalan individuals whose material — and even more tellingly, cultural — level are superior to the would-be commentator's are practically a taboo subject...unless their activities can in some sense be classified as 'social'.

Flinder also notes that the "dissatisfied, whining insistence" of North American children — and she presumes, Canadian and European ones — "certainly isn't a Guatemalan thing. Not in the least. Gracias a Dios!" (She's obviously not come across the local phenomenon known as the berrinche! )

I'm sure that many Guatemalan kids across the socio-demographics of the land are outdoors making up their own games in extended groups of friends and relatives in the country's famously 'safe' streets and markets. But I also know that a fair number spend their evenings glued to Mexican telenovelas targeted at adults.

Hardly any will have fed their growing minds with Dickens let alone Harry Potter, Asterix or Doctor Who, and frankly it does bother me that kids down here appear to lack easy access to an extensive selection of 'imaginative' products of their own, such as ones one finds on TV or on the children's bookshelves back in the UK.

One consequence it seems to me is that many children here manifest themselves as ill-formed adults, often driven by fairly primal instincts that they have yet to bring under mature control. Even comparatively disadvantaged kids in the UK seem generally better able to exploit the culture around them to define themselves as young individuals and to develop their own unique set of tastes and attitudes.

Children's literature, TV etc. is of course marketed at minors and therefore provides opportuities for more of the kind of inverted snobbery that I've been addressing here. Yet however inventive one is in isolation, there's usually no substitute for exposure to other worlds, both real and imagined. And, as I noted above, this is a problem that whilst exacerbated by material circumstances, isn't entirely coincident with them: so even where middle-class affluence exists here, the cultural level of Guatemalan children tends to fall well below that of their European peers.

This problem must surely feed into the challenge of educational under-performance that Guatemala and other Latin American countries face compared to their 'competitors' in the rest of the developing world; Asia in particular. The average Latin American adult has just 5.8 years of schooling compared to 10.5 for South Koreans and 7.9 for Malaysians. Even the richest 10% of Latin American society average around 11 years only, still below that of major developed nations in their entirety. And specifically here in Guatemala there are fewer girls than boys in the education system.

I'd want to fix stuff like that before we start preemptively thanking God for the positive imaginative condition of Guatemala's juniors.


There Will Be Blood

It's taken us quite a while to get round to seeing this film. Perhaps I had been unnecessarily concerned that V wouldn't engage with its darkness, but in the end she really loved it...though the end itself was perhaps the one thing that disappointed her.

Critics have referred to the film's "daring originality". I suspect that many have become unused to movie narratives where character rather than plot is in the driving seat. The structure is certainly highly unusual; "a labyrinth," V suggested, unconsciously matching Mark Kermode's observation that you never really know what to expect next or where the story is heading overall. The film itself seems to seethe with the menacingly unpredictable quality of its central character.

She also described the experience of watching the first hour or so as a "tension tease", an effect that the score accentuates by insisting when it appears not to need to, and then dissipating during moments of dramatic crux.

Comparisons with Citizen Cane are perhaps deserved as much for the variety of little cinematic tricks deployed as for the subject matter itself. Given that the two mismatched antagonists at the heart of the film are unhinged representatives of capitalism and religion, one might care to look beneath the character study for themes of contemporary relevance, but other than the notion that these two callings have a benevolent self-identification tending towards malevolence, I suspect that Paul Thomas Anderson intended no schematic interpretation beyond our engagement with the phenomenon that is Daniel Plainview.

Grade: A-

Semana Santa: (Moving) Pic of the Day



Listening to funereal music from speakers in doorways and salvos of familial bickering are just two of the local traditions associated with the preparation of ceremonial carpets in the small hours of Good Friday.

Monday, April 20, 2009

Circling the drain?

Over 1000 people had their lives ended violently here in Guatemala during Q1.

Studiosus, a leading package tour operator in Germany, Austria and Switzerland, has cancelled all its packages to Guatemala for 2009 and 2010; in a statement on its website the firm said that the decision follows a warning from the German government in March, about repeated killings of bus travelers "in the Caribbean nation".

I think they might have misheard: it's bus drivers who have the low life expectancy in Guatemala. 44 transport workers perished last quarter, 18 of them in March.

Studiosus also expressed concern about rumors of a possible coup.

Meanwhile the apparently 'failed state' run by President Colom has taken a number of extraordinary measures to curb the killings, such as reducing the number of guns each citizen can own to three, and reducing the number of people who can travel on any given motorbike to one. A leading crim known locally as Smiley was also apprehended last week.

Last year's homicide tally was 5400 so the Q1 numbers came in a bit below expectations.




TV Viewing Diary: Epitafios

Last night we watched part 1 of this slick Argie mini-series from 2004.

Only in Latin America would a plot-point revolve around a protagonist's inability to make a crucial call because he'd run out of saldo on his mobile!

Returning to the theme of recent posts it will be interesting to discover whether this was a thriller premised on its ending or on its beginning. Though the strapline el final está escrito could be a bit of give-away.

12 more episodes to go; but I'm hooked already. "It's just a telenovela," V noted derisively. Ok, it does have moments when we see close ups of the characters immobile heads set to a few seconds of melodramatic music, but sometimes those heads aren't actually attached to bodies.

Semana Santa: Pic of the Day

Quote of the Day

"What is important, it seems to me, is not so much to defend a culture whose existence has never kept a man from going hungry, as to extract, from what is called culture, ideas whose compelling force is identical with that of hunger."
Antonin Artaud

Suicide Circle (Jisatsu Saakuru)

See my last post. The fundamental conceit here is the opening scene when a group of 50+ Japanese school children hold hands on the platform at Shinjuku railway station before leaping in front of a passing train. Everything else after that is essentially padding.

Perhaps cleverly (and even more so than M. Night Shyamalan in The Happening) Sion Sono has decided that this disturbing scenario can be explored without the need for settling on a definitive explanation.

The idea that the urge to end it all can be triggered by everyday consumer technology products would seem to have been borrowed from an early episode of The X Files, yet is highly appropriate within a movie which is attempting to rub salt on several raw and exposed parts of the Japanese psyche.

I'm sure the natives found this a bit less of a muddle than I did.

Grade: B

Trauma

It took us a while to come to terms with what a dog's dinner of a movie this was. The first half hour had been quite intriguing and we're both well disposed to its two main leads.

Apparently the director wanted to remind viewers of classic psychological thrillers like Don't Look Now. Instead I detected a bit of a mish-mash with elements of Bug, Memento and several seminal Asian horrors.

The experience led me to reflect on how these genre films tend to be constructed. Some screenwriters begin with a striking scenario, one that is usually pregnant with possibilities. How they choose to manage those possibilities and ultimately boil them down into just one, will determine the overall levels of tension felt during the film and the satisfaction felt at the end.

At times when the resolution itself is not implicit in the starting point (and when the writers haven't fully worked out the ending before they started scribbling) there is the potential for viewers to experience a funnel-effect in terms of emotional engagement with the narrative.

This, on the other hand, has to have been one of those stories which began as an idea for an ending (like say Sixth Sense). Everything else behind that conclusion then becomes padding. We the viewer might still experience this as a compression of possibilities, but when the conceit is the pay-off itself, the writers are generally indulging in precisely the opposite activity.

Trauma would have been a much better movie if Richard Smith had been a little bit more focused in his padding activity. He inserted too many tricky little misdirections and borrowed chiller tropes and ended up being sloppy vis-à-vis the main challenge presupposed by his plotline — maintaining credibility (and intelligibility) when anything and anyone seen on screen could either be real or a figment of the lead character's glitchy imagination.

Grade: B (-)

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Semana Santa: Pic of the Day


A Baroque masterpiece!


Saturday, April 18, 2009

Semana Santa: Pic of the Day



There appears to be an urban legend that these members of the sacred processions are real jailbirds. While this might have happened on occasion in the past, it is not the norm.

Anyway, here in Antigua prisoners released on a day pass tend to be out murdering bishops rather than participating in religious festivities!