"It isn’t necessary for a bank manager’s wife to know about money; a soldier’s better half doesn’t need to know how to kill foreigners with a bayonet; nobody insists that a footballer’s missus can kick a ball (though being able to use a knee or a fist is sometimes advisable). But a food critic’s significant entrée needs not just to eat, but be aggressively omnivorous. It would be too depressing to do this job with someone who only ever wanted a green salad — “Hold the dressing” — and thought that restaurants were gastric brothels of evil temptation."
Sunday, March 07, 2010
No AA Gill in The Sunday Times this morning, but last week he was at the French Horn in Sonning, a venue of fond childhood memory for me, and observed how important it is for foodies to find the appropriate mate: