In theory (i.e. according to the latest wild promise to emerge from the mouth of Boris) all Brits of my age-group will have had the chance to be jabbed by May.
Thursday, February 11, 2021
Passepartout
Morsels
Briefly during the decade before last, V was asked by the late, great Bruce of Panzón Verde fame to act (occasionally) as his official taster.
It wasn't that he was afraid of poisoners, he had just detected that she possibly possessed the kind of sophisticated tastes that are perhaps a bit more rare over here and wanted to tap into her opinions on the dishes he was offering at his inn.
This put her fairly immediately in an awkward situation one night in his restaurant. Bruce had ordered chicken in a green curry sauce and when it was placed in front of him by the chef (also an acquaintance of hers) he asked for an off-the-cuff opinion.
The curry was delicious. Yet she felt she had to observe that the rice should not have been made to go for a swim in the sauce before it left the kitchen.
Here's another example I captured on my last trip out of Guatemala in 2020, to Huatulco, Oaxaca. The rice is, in terms of quantity, a borderline case, and yet is just about holding its own against the flood tide of the sauce.
There's almost nothing I could say about this world that I couldn't find a way to intelligently contradict in a matter of minutes. Yet when it comes to food, I do tend to become a bit more dogmatic.
That said, I will never give a restaurant a bad review simply because I was served up a plate that I didn't enjoy. There is always going to be something subjective about the experience of noshing.
There are people — like my father — who will go to pretty much any restaurant and order pretty much the same thing every time (like a steak) and then there are people like me who will usually tend to be a bit more adventurous and experimental. This will, statistically, lead to a greater incidence of disappointment.
I fondly remember having lunch with my father in a small restaurant in Lambs Conduit Street in London which did not offer the steak option, at least not of the mooing variety. In fact the menu consisted almost entirely of tidbits most of us have never tried, like crocodile and scorpion. The look on his face as he studied the menu will stay with me forever.
A dinner FAIL that V constantly reminds me of occurred back in the early noughties in San Sebastián. Basque cuisine is considered by many aficionados to be quite possibly the very best in the world and the finest restaurants in this city take the form of 'closed door' sanctoria, far more akin to private dining clubs than the sort of joints one might typically encounter in a Spanish town with attached beach.
She ordered a rice dish in squid ink and received what looked like a viscous blue-black soup with a few grains of rice floating like miniscule carcasses on the surface.
It looked yummy enough to me, I have to admit. I've ordered something similar more recently at my favourite seafood restaurant in San Salvador — La Ola – but their version is definitely more rice in squid ink than squid ink with floundering grains.
Where I do get annoyed by meals consumed outside the home is when they fail what I regard as the basic rules of hospitality. If the plate that emerges is something I would be embarrassed to put in front of a guest in my own home, then I deem that the kitchen should be thoroughly ashamed of itself.
The quantity of rice served as a side is often a handy metric. Here in Antigua Guatemala I've seen arroz served in volumes indicative of a long siege by an encircling army outside the city limits.
I have never quite understood why chapines skimp on the carbs and veggies. It surely has to be cost effective to provide the customer with a sense of plenty rather than famine.
I have probably mentioned before another handy rule of thumb. Never accept less than an entire single piece of fruit on one's plate. This applies to plantains, avocados, tomatoes and so on. (With papayas one may have to settle for half as the bare minimum.)
Hey Jude
Wednesday, February 10, 2021
Hippocrits
It has more than once occurred to me that an unconventional way to rescue endangered mammals might be to send them on a bit of a one way trip. Black Rhino? Off to Patagonia. It's worked for other invasive species like the Welsh.
Tuesday, February 09, 2021
La Llorona (2019)
The first Central American movie to receive a Golden Globe nomination, and near enough to being a bona fide chapin masterpiece.
I had some issues with local auteur Jayro Bustamante's earlier work, Ixcanul, but not with this.
We watched it last year and I am not sure why I didn't get around to reviewing it at the time. It takes two rather crucial pieces of Guatemalan mythology, one very old, the other very contemporary, and moulds them pretty successfully.
The way the wife’s character is handled is superb and some of the tomas are superlative, especially the courtroom scene.
It does however require some prior knowledge of the underlying material.
My very first evening here in La Antigua, long ago, involved an all night drinking session with Rodrigo, nephew of Efraín Ríos Montt, at the home of a very congenial retired engineer from Dundee called James Stewart.
It was the latter who first introduced me to the gathering lore surrounding the general, and perhaps as a consequence I have ended up with a more nuanced view on this than most.
I tend to believe that Ríos Montt became the totemic figure of Guatemalan civil war demonology, singled out for particular blame because, over time, the issues had apparently become simpler and he was pretty much the only significant participant left to collar.
My views on these matters were strongly influenced in the 90s by Masacres en la Selva, Ixcán 1975-82, an extraordinary book authored by Ricardo Falla, a Jesuit priest with a sideline in almost disturbingly dispassionate anthropological observations of mass murder.
There is a crucial 'scene' that I tend to recall, in which an army patrol has entered a village with the express intention of slaying all of its inhabitants.
Then, word reaches them of the coup that raised Ríos Montt and his two less memorable muckers to the presidency. The bloodshed is put on hold and the soldiers begin to mill around socialising with the very villagers they had only recently proposed to slaughter.
The new government will bring an end to the genocidal policy, they apparently surmised. But then another order comes through. Go ahead. And they do.
The Dig (2021)
A delightful gem of a Netflix movie about two kindred spirits, an eccentric and doomed lady of the manor and an auto-didact with a passion for excavation, who combine to encounter the greatest treasure ever found beneath English soil on the eve of WWII.
This would be a war that would shake up the individualist philosophies that had taken hold before it. In his 1945 essay The War Has Taken Place Maurice Merleau-Ponty wrote "We are in the world, mingled with it, compromised with it." Dirty hands became the new post-war buzzword of the existentialist movement, which pointed to a notion of freedom tempered by the demands of the moment which, after all, we are not supposed to rise above.
The Dig is a gently profound tale of how we are compromised by history, how it dirties our hands, yet in a potentially positive fashion.
As such it is not really about the Sutton Hoo finds at all, but how the people who made them came to appreciate how each of us mingles with the history around us, forming part of a human chain, linking the deep, mythical past to the imagined futures of the likes of Buck Rogers and Flash Gordon.
Non Brits probably need to bring to this a basic knowledge of our history and national mythology, not so much our dark ages as our 'darkest hour'.
At the heart of the story, and yet strangely absent, is the man who had himself buried in a ship in Suffolk surrounded by royal regalia and a richness of other extraordinary personal items, Christian and pre-Christian. He is commonly identified as Rædwald of the East Anglians, a powerful early seventh century king mentioned by Bede, said to maintain altars to both Christ and Woden in apartments adjoining his hall.
He was the leader of a group of fairly recent migrants who would give the English their name, their language and perhaps some of their lasting cultural preconceptions, yet formed perhaps just 5-10% of the overall population at the time.
The movie is necessarily shy about the most emblematic of the Sutton Hoo treasures, the king's helmet. When first excavated it was in something like 600 pieces, which is probably why we are denied any artificial big discovery moment.
It was first assembled (wrongly) for the Festival of Britain in 1951.
Shortly afterwards it was re-shattered and then put back together bit by bit, over quite a extended period. The chance discovery of a dragon's head piece in a separate cardboard box turned out to be the solution to the problem posed by the crest. Slotted in between the eyebrows it became clear how both these and the moustache formed part of a winged dragon overpassing the warrior's face. (Seen clearly here in the British Museum's later reconstruction, along with the pagan iconography of its panels.)
The original was adorned with gemstones that almost certainly came from the Indian subcontinent. It was around a hundred years old already at the time of burial. This would date it to the period just after the end of direct Roman rule and in basic shape it does follow the template of the imperial parade helmet. There were two holes in the base of the nose to assist with breathing and the face plate was designed to enhance and deepen the voice of the bearer in a somewhat Vadery fashion.
One of the loveliest pieces found alongside the helmet was this belt buckle, said to be worth by weight in gold precisely the weregeld for a slain thegn or Anglo-Saxon nobleman. So maybe Raedwald liked to loosen his breaches after a big blow out meal at his long table, and thereby show off just how affordable the lives of others there present would be to him.
The real Edith Pretty was said, like many of her class and generation, to be obsessed with spiritualism. A vision of spear-carrying warriors atop the strange mounds has been noted as the inspiration for borrowing excavator Basil Brown from the Ipswich Museum and setting him upon her barrow.
As Pretty, Carey Mulligan is again wistful and wonderful, yet she is outshone in the production by Ralph Fiennes, whose portrayal of Brown is pleasing in the extreme.
Some considerable effort seems to have gone into making Lily James appear less incandescently sexy than she usually does as the slightly frumpy amateur archaeologist Peggy Piggott, and yet the end result is perhaps one of her sexiest roles to date. The trouble here is not so much her fictionalised fling with cousin Rory (Johnny Flynn), but how she ever got married to the closeted Stuart in the first place.
Sunday, February 07, 2021
Caso Lever S01E04: Er Indoors
Until Lever's wife Carmen went to the police on February 18, 2018 and accused me of having attacked her when I was not in fact even in Guatemala, I could be said to have been guilty of overlooking the threat that she posed. (Perhaps a classic case of mosquita muerta.)
V politely refused of course, and found herself gently lecturing the younger woman on how she should only ask along people she knows rather more deeply and would thus have a vested interest in her wellbeing.
Indeed, once Lever's apparently deliberate encroachments on our territory became undeniable, my wife advised me to go easy on the pair of them as they were newlyweds, his wife is pregnant etc.
Had this been London we'd have instinctively dialled 999 for sure. But here in Guatemala any involvement with local law enforcement tends to come with blowback so, in a sense, we pulled the pillows over our heads.
He looked a bit flummoxed and prattled on how he had inherited a 'special deal' from the previous owner whereby the water supply came free of charge. I made my best sceptical face and served up my friendly warning, adding that freeloading would be frowned upon even more so in this village where the often feeble daytime flow of water has been the number one gripe for at least four decades.
Yet within a matter of weeks she was seemingly on the warpath again.
Well, Lever left all common decency behind remarkably quickly.
And once that happens, the perpetrator can either come clean and take the punishment or he can try to duck and dive like a shirker, whilst in the meantime doing everything in his power to demean his victim.
Once toxic people lose the ability to control you, they soon resort to an attempt to control how others perceive you.
The incident below was a kind of drive-by derogation. In the evening of the 8th of November, 2018 Lever found us clustered in a small family group, children included, outside our home as he whizzed past on his Douchati shouting "Ahhh, it's the cunt and the ugly bitch", yobbishly.
We ignored him and continued to do so as he settled in his own entrance and began lecturing several generations of my wife's family from a distance about how she had married me for my money.
One of the children present produced a cellphone and captured the tail end of the encounter...
The two of us met in La Antigua 32 years ago. I had just graduated and my future wife was working here in IT.
Overall then, I am inclined to see his reluctance to open a water account with the Muni and his use of his wife to hamper any investigation into this as a symptom of a more sinister phenomenon, into which Mrs Lever's persistent meddling with the authorities slots largely as a sub-plot.
By way of a cliffhanger though, I will report that long before we were brushed away by the Departamento de Agua in early 2018, on April 29, 2014 someone had burgled the water meter from right outside our main gate, resulting in a minor flood in the vicinity that lasted several days.
Fortunately, we were advised at the time by an old friend, then the alcalde auxiliar, to properly report this a crime to the PNC, along with the meter's numerical ID.
These devices have some minor intrinsic resale value. But we wondered at the time why of all the water meters in the village, the as yet unidentified thief chose ours.
It was some time before we apprehended the possible connection between this theft and the fact that the missing meter was registered to our address, which was suddenly being shared.
Verónica (2017)
A few minutes into this film we both became aware that we might have seen it before, though we weren't entirely sure. Never a good sign!
Teenagers with ouija boards is a very tired conceit, indeed one very likely to induce sleep.
Paco Plaza's take on this stands out quite strongly however, for he avoids the generic high-school character tropes of Hollywood, instead situating this visitation from beyond in an unusual domestic arrangement within a working class suburb of Madrid in 1991 (the no phone zone again), laying on the social realism just enough not to distract.
There's also a captivating, Goya-nominated performance from then newcomer Sandra Escacena, convincingly portraying a melancholic fifteen-year old, at once prematurely adult and trapped in pre-pubescence, forced to act as surrogate carer to three younger siblings, as her own widowed mother works long shifts in a local café-bar called La Cigala.
The latter played, by Ana Torrent, is something of a cult figure in Spanish horror, and we chose Verónica as a follow up to the wonderful Cría Cuervos (1976) on the basis of her appearance here alone.
Overall it is very nice to look at, but not especially scary. No matter how many times you show me a mochila falling on the floor, or indeed a filthy mattress, I am not going to be terrified. Blind nun? Meh.
And it makes no difference to me at all to me that this was supposedly the first time a Spanish police inspector included direct observations of 'inexplicable' phenomena in his report.
Not being a believer in the supernatural, I find that movies springing from this genre most appeal when they play intelligently with the form while still managing to poke around in the pile of seemingly less conscious existential anxieties.
My understanding of the ending differs slightly from the movie's Wikipedia entry. For me this is a metaphysical twist that could have been developed or even just flagged up better: a sort of prematurely-ejaculated ghost, if you would.
Saturday, February 06, 2021
He wasn't talking about Antigua...
But he might as well have been.
These days however, traffic and crowds are somewhat less of an issue...
The quarterdeck of the Ayuntamiento is no longer open to amateur photographers and other assorted rubbernecks.
But I had a meeting up there first thing last Friday, yet still had to negotiate my way past two security guards, an apparatchik and a secretary.
From the historical record...
That's V outside the little thatched cottage that my parents acquired when I was a baby.
She has always been very emphatic (and in those days very analogue) about demonstrating her disapproval with any supposedly unflattering snaps I might have taken of her.
The village of Letcombe Bassett, 3km southwest of Wantage, remains a smallish cluster of such thatched buildings dating mainly to the seventeenth century.
My father always recounted rather proudly how his property appears in the Domesday Book and there have been significant archaeological finds around the village, including Roman and Iron Age grave sites.
After the second world war the long history of this settlement almost came to an abrupt end when the local council decided it would be too expensive to install mains drainage and planned to relocate the residents.
There's a fascinating British Pathé documentary from 1948 about the ensuing local resistance, which begins with a woman opening the gate of a small home identified as 'Arabella's Cottage', which bears a striking resemblance to ours, yet I believe is another, slightly larger structure very close by.
This was the name Thomas Hardy gave to a dwelling in his fictionalised version of Letcombe Bassett — Cresscombe — in Jude The Obscure. The 'cress' part suggested by the fact that the village was long famous for the cultivation of this fast-growing perennial, and the cry of 'Bassett Cress' was well known in the Covent Garden market of old.
There were other important literary inhabitants and visitors. Jonathan Swift lived at the rectory in 1714 as he finished off Free Thoughts On The Present State Of Affairs and at around the time Alexander Pope is said to have dropped in.
Our old weekend getaway sits within its own little valley through which passes the brook, feeding a pond that my father populated with trout. The A338, running along the one edge of this valley, was once a Roman road.
Letcombe, originally Ledecumbe, derives from lede in the combe or the brook in the valley. The Bassett part comes from a Richard Bassett, who held the manor in 1158.
Alfred the Great was born nearby in Wantage in 849.
Friday, February 05, 2021
Thursday, February 04, 2021
The Little Things (2021)
A trio of Oscar winners headed up by Denzel, make this retro detective noir a must view surely? Kind of.
It begins with a girl driving down a lonely highway at night, followed by a caption: "October 1990".
Ah, we think, we're been plonked in that narrow temporal block where violent thrillers are starting to accumulate. The no phone zone. (Though there's a cameo from a beeper later on.)
Yet perhaps the very reason this movie feels a bit tired and derivative, or at least as if thirty years of serial killer screenplays had never been written, is that director John Lee Hancock has been trying to get his script taken up for just that long. Spielberg and Eastwood have shown interest along the way, then passed.
Washington starts off well enough, allowing one to think his performance alone will carry one through, but then turns torpid. Luckily at this stage creepy Jared Leto turns up properly. Malek does his thing with the eyes throughout. It's deliciously moody and nocturnal, to the extent that one might not notice that it is not really committing to what's at stake.
The ending is going to feel unsatisfactory to many. I suspect it would have worked better if the film had been released in the year it is set. This way it just adds to one's sense that the audience has been wantonly jerked around by withheld information.
Wednesday, February 03, 2021
Amateursville
It never ceases to amaze me how many of Antigua's hospitality businesses are owned and managed by rank amateurs.
The precise proportion is frankly anyone's guess, a pie chart that much harder to plot owing to the presence of businesses owned by people who are at least trying to offer a professional service, and yet are prone to the (more than) occasional mess up.
The other stay, staring kitchen ennui in the face, we decided to call up one of the newest entrants for a home-delivered antojo.
No names, as this experience could, unfortunately, be said to be all too exemplary.
The bloke that answered the phone sounded as if the call had woken him up. It was late lunchtime, a period that in Spain at least might qualify as siesta time.
The order was progressing just fine until after I had provided my address, at which point the man on the end of the line informed me that he'd need around thirty minutes to start cooking and then perhaps another twenty or so to deliver.
And then he murmured that there would be a Q20 delivery charge.
While I was mulling all this, he suddenly added 'Oh, I seem to have run out of chicken...'
By then I was close to suggesting that I could deliver some pollo for him to cook from my own freezer.
Here's the thing. This is a new business with the term 'Express' in its name. From the pictures on el feis, I can deduce that it is almost wholly geared up for home delivery. The Q20 surcharge is absurd as it would have cost me less to go and collect this meal in an Uber.
The chicken dish in question is something I have prepared myself and I am well aware that it is not something that can be knocked up from scratch in half an hour.
By far the best home delivery experiences we've during the pandemic have been from local operations that are not hiding behind a brand or a concept and are generally not trying to be something that they are not.
Reina Alvarez's roast chicken offering is one such. Recommended.
Tuesday, February 02, 2021
Shots in the arm...
The good news seems to be that nobody that has had any of the leading vaccines against covid-19 has subsequently been hospitalised with a severe form of the disease.
At the current rate of the rollout, it will be 2024 before most of Europe hits the 70 per cent inoculation level believed to be necessary to take a population to a critical level of immunity. Australia and Japan have not even started yet, while much of the developing world is being left to fend for itself.






















