Francophillic Horn

No AA Gill in The Sunday Times this morning, but last week he was at the French Horn in Sonning, a venue of fond childhood memory for me, and observed how important it is for foodies to find the appropriate mate:

"It isn’t necessary for a bank manager’s wife to know about money; a soldier’s better half doesn’t need to know how to kill foreigners with a bayonet; nobody insists that a footballer’s missus can kick a ball (though being able to use a knee or a fist is sometimes advisable). But a food critic’s significant entrée needs not just to eat, but be aggressively omnivorous. It would be too depressing to do this job with someone who only ever wanted a green salad — “Hold the dressing” — and thought that restaurants were gastric brothels of evil temptation."